This time Phyllis and I took along our mutual friend, Denyse, who hadn’t been to Norfolk Island before. She also hadn’t been on a “girls only” trip before, so we took great enjoyment in introducing her to the delights of both! Our first port of call was the Government run Tourist Information Centre to book the tours we wanted. We booked from here last time and found it better than booking with each individual tour operator - easier to get it all done in the one place, and for the same cost.

Our first tour was for a Sunset Fish Fry on our second night there. We booked a different one from last time, however unfortunately the weather was against us and during the afternoon there was a phone call to tell us it had been moved indoors due to the threat of rain - they have had a much bigger rainfall this year than they are used to. The one saving grace was that the venue was just across the road from us so we were able to walk over and back, and the food was almost as yummy as if we had been eating it on the cliff tops watching the sun disappear into the ocean!

Nestled in the “lower middle” of the South Pacific, around 1600km east of Sydney, 1500km east of Brisbane, 1000km north of Auckland NZ and 1000km south of New Caledonia, and being only five by eight kilometres (three by five miles) in circumference with a total area of 3455ha, the island is quite remote and isolated, and rather unique, given it’s history as a penal settlement and then home to the descendants of the Bounty Mutineers. We had tried to prepare Denyse for the fact that grocery shopping there is an entirely different exercise than at home. To keep the Island disease free, no fresh fruit or vegetables are allowed in so they need to be completely self sufficient in that area. Sometimes the weather can play havoc with that, such as the above average rainfall mentioned above. It all but wiped out their crop of tomatoes and poor Denyse was almost going into withdrawal by the time we located some at the Sunday markets, albeit rather small and pricey!

We did the Glass Bottom Boat tour again as Denyse had never been on one. She loved it of course, as it’s just in the little lagoon in Emily Bay and you’re literally one minute from the coral when setting off. Phyl and I however, were a little disappointed to find that apparently coral has a “season” and whilst it had been in season when we were last there in October and beautifully colourful, this time it was not the season so nowhere near as colourful. We also did a Progressive Dinner again this time and as it was to different homes from the ones we visited last time, it was very interesting and the food delicious.

This time we also elected to do the guide led Convict Settlement Tour which proved to be a great decision. Last time we just wandered around on our own which was fun but the amount of background information we received this time, made it even more enjoyable. We visited most of the convict ruins, including the gaol, cemetery, Commissariat Store which now houses All Saints Church on its first floor, complete with stained glass windows, and finished up with afternoon tea on the veranda of one of the beautifully restored homes in Quality Row. These were originally the homes for the officials and the restored ones are again used this way with the Public Servants residing there for the tenure of their service. For all the tours where morning or afternoon tea is served, the cakes are home made by one “little old lady” in her 70’s! Wherever you go, the atmosphere is one of being invited along on a family outing, where everyone knows everyone else and pitches in to help.

Another first time experience for us all was the Culla & Co tour - a horse and carriage tour with two gorgeous Clydesdales, out onto a grassy cliff top on private property for a picnic of beautifully fresh egg sandwiches, made earlier that morning by Culla himself, and tea and coffee. Culla is a real character - I have no idea if it is his first, last or nick name - he introduces himself, “I’m Culla, just Culla”, and he loves his horses. He introduced us to them, one was Sam but for the life of me, I can’t remember the other (old timers’ is lurking!). I remembered Sam because when I was a little girl and used to go on the milk run with my Dad on our horse and cart, our horse was also Sam, although he was not a Clydesdale, just a smaller draught horse (which Culla informed me, meant he was a Clydesdale cross). He invited the more spritely of the group to climb up into the front seat (most people who visit Norfolk Island are of a certain age!), so I made a beeline for it and Phyl wasn’t far behind me, Denyse having to make do with the second seat. We traded places and made the return journey in the back, letting others have the first and second seats. Whilst it was only a few kilometres (nothing can be very far from anything else on Norfolk Island!), the journey took about an hour each way, with around an hour out on the point for our picnic and photography. Some of the roads tend to be narrow, reminding me of my stay in England (also very green, as there), and as far as can be on the Island, were “main” roads, so the normal traffic just had to wait until there was a chance to pass, but there was no blowing of horns, impatience or gestures, other than a friendly wave and a brief greeting by name. We had to go through a “major intersection” at one point, whereby Culla called, “Look to the right, boys, look to the right” and then after they had dutifully obeyed, “Look to the left, boys, look to the left”. Again, in unison, they did as they were told and then Culla said, “Walk on boys”, and off we went slowly through the intersection whilst on coming traffic slowed to allow us through, again with a wave and cheery greeting. At another point there was a fairly long, reasonably steep gradient. There was a ute waiting for us and Culla produced a large towing rope which he proceeded to hitch to the carriage and the ute tow ball, and off we went again with this “assist engine” helping the boys up the hill - the dog was in the back of the ute, supervising the whole operation! Try any of that around the main roads here! We mentioned to Culla that he wasn’t here last time we came and he said, “I’m always here, when was it?”. When we replied, “October”, he said, “Ah, that’s Grand Final time, I never miss the Grand Final, been going for the last 20 years”! It was a truly delightful morning.

Two new places that we definitely had to add to our itinerary were the Two Chimneys Winery and Norfolk Island Liquors, both of which required numerous tastings! We also included a guided tour of some of the Island’s beautiful gardens and farm/cottage industries (including a quarter horse farm, pottery, and wood turning workshop) which was very interesting. This tour finished off with a visit to Sweeties, the Island lolly shop and chocolate maker. Of course, we had already visited this shop, having discovered it on our first visit, but that didn’t mean that we didn’t need to join in the tastings and buy some more supplies! There was also the obligatory shopping and I came away with FOUR new pairs of shoes. After all, the “main reason” for returning was so I could buy another pair of the Rieker sandals that I had purchased last time! Those sandals took me from the deserts of Egypt to the flooded sidewalks of New York in a summer downpour and all places in between, and were the most comfortable shoes I’ve ever owned. Sadly, the New York episode almost finished them off, so a new pair was needed. To be on the safe side, I bought two, plus a pair of closed in leather walking shoes, and while I was about it, I thought I may as well buy my work shoes as well (after all, I get reimbursed for those!). You can buy Riekers in Australia, but they are about twice the price. (Never mind the price of airfares etc., there is logic in there… somewhere!).

You would think twice would be enough, but we all agree, we could easily go again…

and probably will!